Jakob Kennedy’s restaurant Boca di Lupo is better known but he runs his own rival gelato parlour to the big Italian players in a little shop opposite the restaurant, on the south west corner of Soho, by the Windmill Theatre…with free delivery within five miles of W1 plus ancillary range now of chocolate bars including cold press from Modica in Sicily. Open until midnight on weekends. It is a Pimms and lemonade approach. Or maybe more Negroni. In fact it bends over backwards to be seasonal so July might have rice pudding with strawberry jam, or Eton Mess. The ricota sour is classic.

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