Probably second only to La Fromagerie in its selection of mainly raw milk cheeses and artisan products predominantly from France, with exceptions for Portugal for sardines, England for craft beers. There is a hefty selection of charcuterie from the Basque area, and some first class made-up pates, all to go with a wall of natural wines. “Gastronomic pleasure is what we do,” declares the web site, but with the caveat that “we endeavour to work with people who look after the Earth”. The shops – the original smaller one in Holloway and a shade larger in Hackney – are a front for the import business, so much of what you see might reappear happily on a restaurant menu. There is an online subscription service for five cheeses of your choice delivered each month for £32

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